Half crimp grip. See full list on climbing. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. Alternatively, you can test a single finger at a time, having the arm fixated with a portable hangboard and a tension-based dynamometer. Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. The half-crimp grip, where your fingers are bent at about 90 degrees at the first knuckle without thumb overwrap, is especially important for building strength safely. Jun 28, 2023 · Keep the same half-crimp grip without allowing your thumb to fold over your fingers and lock them in place. To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinky is straight (simply because it is shorter). This is a good protocol for targeting harder yet shorter power endurance crux sections. Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. Is the third one also a half crimp or not since the second joint is higher than the ends of the fingers. I understand that the first image is an open grip and according to some people the second one is a half crimp since the first two joints are in line and the hand is bent at 90 degrees. Grip Selection: Use open-hand or half-crimp grips to avoid excessive strain. Sadly, my ego is too weak to even contemplate trying to hang on a half-crimp. Jul 9, 2020 · If you want to get started as a rock climber, there are six types of rock climbing grips you need to learn. Initially, focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grips—one set each. Using a full-crimp grip too early in your training can lead to finger injuries, as this grip places a significant strain on your tendons. Crimping ain’t easy. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you'll be Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. Participants used crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand grips for three trials each, with the fourth condition involving campusing using any grip except crimp. To check the reliability of our method, the intraclass correlation (ICC) and the coefficient of variation (CV) were calculated. It definitely requires more active pulling than closed/open for me. Bend the index, middle and ring fingers at 90 degrees, keep your little finger straight, and rest your thumb next to the index finger. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. 32; Jun 10, 2020 · The half crimp grip is the number one grip position in terms of strength transfer to all other grips and climbing performance. A half crimp position is simply a crimp with the palm flat or “open”. Dec 17, 2021 · If you are slipping from half-crimp into open-hand during your fingerboard routine, you likely require a larger edge, or longer rest between reps or sets. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. Nov 21, 2022 · Initially focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grip—one set each. *抓点手型推荐Half Crimp或Open Hand Crimp Grip，详情见后文。 *手型Crimp、half crimp、full crimp在网上有翻译成「小扣扣」或者「小片儿」都是对岩点的归类，在手型上还未有统一和恰当的翻译。我也没想到能够传达含义的词语，直接用英文并在后文上图。欢迎大家后台出主意 作为V15抱石高手的埃米尔每天 This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Is it merely a matter of practice, or does the half crimp offer mechanical advantages that could elevate their climbing experience? I suspect nobody has a definitive answer on this-- and that either grip is good enough. Nov 6, 2024 · To assess improvements in explosive strength, the study measured RFD in the initial 200 ms of force generation, known as RFD200ms, across three grip positions: slope crimp, half crimp, and full crimp. The difference between a half crimp and full crimp is our thumb positioning. Full crimp Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. These types of holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. Depending on the respective length of individual fingers, the climbers may prefer one or the other. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. 3. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. When to use the half crimp: On moderately small holds that don’t require maximum power. In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments. If possible, the thumb rests next to the index finger or onto the hold. Jan 19, 2021 · That would be a full crimp and will be discussed in the next section. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Complete the following for each grip position: hang for 7 seconds, rest for 3 seconds, and do seven hangs, so that you’re near exhaustion for the last (seventh) hang. It is a grip position that many climbers become accustomed to for it is the grip position that they train most frequently, however, it could be argued that a four-finger open-had position could often be used in the place of this half crimp. The author, Ned Feehally, full crimps on his home wall. Jun 25, 2025 · Maximum isometric strength was measured for handgrip, three-finger drag, and half-crimp grips, while forearm muscle mass was estimated using DXA. Hang/open/drag. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. I am of the opinion that you should train in a grip position that is specific to how you grip holds on the wall, or at least your hangboard training should be specific to your goals. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. Apr 15, 2020 · Use a 15mm (if needed, 20mm) edge of your hangboard with half-crimp grip and calculate the maximum added weight which you’a able to hold for 5 seconds. The super classic half crimp (drawing 1 Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). Significantly higher MVC values in half-crimp grip were observed in elite sport climbers than in advanced athletes. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. One of the unfortunate truths in training for climbing is that a strength gain in one grip position doesn’t translate well into other grip types. Some grip types are more “active” than others. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. Grips Half crimp. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. Perfect for flakes and small edges, the full crimp grip is when you grab with most of the pressure on the middle finger joints (with the thumb wrapped around the index finger for extra power). 03. Dec 14, 2016 · The Rock Climber's Training Manual Strength Question about disparity between open hand and half-crimp Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. Oct 15, 2021 · A half crimp is a type of grip climbers use in the sports of bouldering and rock climbing. Full-Crimp: Jun 1, 2023 · Sport climbers presented higher values of MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength, and force time integral parameter than control subjects. Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. The open-hand grip. Hanging in a full crimp Jan 11, 2024 · You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets. Three finger drag 3. Types of Crimp Grips When talking about grip positions, “crimp” is actually an umbrella term. There just isn't good data with anywhere close to the resolution needed to say. Open hand and crimp are strong for two different reasons - one is force application, and the other is "systems support". HALF CRIMP GRIP POSITION OPEN HAND GRIP POSITION Apr 7, 2024 · Another possible grip that can be used for Arm-Lifting is the chisel. Mar 1, 2019 · The full crimp grip is one of 6 hand and finger positions used in rock climbing. Personal anecdote might help, or mislead, basically. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Dec 21, 2022 · Instead, this program focuses on three positions—open hand, half crimp, and full crimp—because they are the most common used in real climbing, and they address the principle of “joint angle specificity. Crimp grip gives you a mechanical advantage for force application - it's easier to keep your fingers closed, and therefore gripping a hold, while in crimp grip. Side note: There's discussion among trainers and climbers alike about half-crimp and what it means for training. (Photo Jordan Hirro) Half-crimp. Be sure to rest at least 5 minutes between sets, and adjust the amount of weight added for each set (and grip position) to stay within the guidelines detailed above. (Photo: Beastmaking Collection) GETTING TO GRIPS WITH YOUR FULL CRIMP A lot of climbers feel like they lack full crimp strength, or feel that crimping is Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. You can execute this grip technique by placing your fingertips on a handhold and then curling your fingers at the second joint. Mean proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) flexion during the holding phase was 87° (SD 12°), 70° (14°) and 39° (27°) for the crimp, half-crimp and open-hand grip, respectively. MQ was calculated as the ratio of peak isometric force to forearm muscle mass. This position is often misidentified: climbers often claim they are in a half crimp when they are actually in a full crimp minus the thumb. May 18, 2022 · Repeaters 1 Choose four or five different grip positions, for example four finger half crimp, sloper, front three open grip, and front three half crimp. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. An injury will set you back for weeks if not months. Personally, I hangboard exclusively with half crimp, but about 75% of my climbing is done with a chisel grip or full crimp. A taped-up hand gripping a chalked indoor climbing hold, showing a workaround for a finger injury. How would you call that grip : half crimp full crimp without thumb high angle Take care of your PIP and DIP. g. On this week episode, Our lord, the turbo crimper is campusing 6mm on 50° board. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 97. . Half Crimp = 90 Degree Joint Angle). So why is it less popular today? The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half Oct 6, 2024 · The half crimp is a much more natural hand position, making it ideal for longer climbing sessions and preventing finger injuries. This is probably the most difficult position for people who are very strong full crimpers to achieve. Closed Crimp vs. Grip rings and Grip handles There are different types of grip rings for different levels of weight training and these offer the perfect workout to get your hands pumping. Mar 30, 2024 · Grip Types: Focus on half-crimp and full-crimp grips. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Advanced climbers can also try increasing resistance to 80%. Progressive Overload: Gradually increase the difficulty of your hangs. Hold Size: Start with large holds, such as 20mm edges or jugs. Grip types and edge size One of the biggest mistakes made by climbers new to hangboarding is that they don’t vary the grip type. While it doesn’t provide as much power as a full crimp, it’s a more sustainable grip for technical climbs. I typically recommend using a half-crimp or slightly obtuse half-crimp grip for training, as research suggests that larger joint angles (like those used in open-hand grips) tend to produce less force and fatigue more quickly, which is not ideal for finger strength training. Concentrate on pulling through the fingertip; don't hang on your tendons and capsules (an easy mistake to make with this grip). Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. From what i've gathered it's basicly 4 fingers on, index is dragging, middle finger is half crimping, ring finger is sort of half crimping, pinky is dragging. Chisel grip strains your A2 significantly less than half crimp, and using the muscles you developed from 3 years of climbing on your less-trained A2's will leave you at a higher risk of injury. This is a variant on the regular half-crimp (figure B), where the index finger bends at 90 degrees. Jun 4, 2025 · Crimps When I first started rock climbing, I thought that holding on to a crimp would be an impossible task. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If a crimp is needed, then first utilize a half crimp, then if it’s a must, use a full crimp. Sep 21, 2022 · This places incredible pressure on your pulleys and can lead to injury. Mar 16, 2005 · I've seen a chisel go under many names: 4 finger open, open, crimp, natural grip and some people even seem to think it's a half crimp (which it isn't). Jun 3, 2025 · Abstract Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. The half crimp is Oct 4, 2017 · Fortunately we’ve consistently collected information about the grip type used in each assessment so we could easily compare the two. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. Rest Periods: Allow at least one day of rest between sessions. Sep 27, 2024 · The half crimp grip has the most applications in climbing. The full crimp will not be discussed further in this article but was provided as a reference. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. To achieve the best results with isometric finger training, perform the exercises in positions that mirror common climbing grips. For example, if you only train the open-hand position, the strength increase in your half crimp might only be twenty Specificity 2. ” This principle says that isometric strength is gained only in a small range outside the angle in which it was trained. Jun 3, 2025 · However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. If possible, use a sloping hold rather than a sharp edge. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. Limit yourself to a maximum of six sets. A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. If your climbing goals never require you to use a half crimp then I see no reason to train it. Advanced climbers can do additional sets that target two-finger pockets (open-hand) and pinch grip. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Half crimp a) has good carryover to the other grip types and b) is much less prone to creating injuries like a full crimp. Crimps are small climbing holds and there are a few different types of crimp grip: open crimp, half crimp, and full crimp. finger with an average difference of 3. Examples of a progressive dynamic warm-up for climbers can be finger tendon glides, ball squeezes using different grips, and hangboard repeaters at 30-40% of max using an open-handed or half crimp grip position (more on this below). Half Crimp vs. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Advanced climbers can do a second set for each half- and open-crimp grips, plus one or two additional sets that target one- and/or two-finger pockets. Jan 4, 2024 · More specifically, crimping in climbing is one of many gripping techniques climbers use to hold especially small crimps. The thumb should rest around two to five centimetres beneath your pointer finger, off-set, one to three centimetres from the pointer, depending on hand size. The ring and pinky fingers take much of the load when using slopers, so this exercise builds translatable strength. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). Oct 26, 2021 · 5. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. This image demonstrates a slope grip (a), half crimp (b), and full crimp (c). Feb 17, 2012 · The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. Aug 14, 2021 · Unlike a full crimp where you lock your thumb over the top of your index finger, the half and open crimp positions ask you to trust your crimp strength with your thumb flying free. Grip positions used (one arm, not two as shown) during the maximal isometric finger strength protocol. You can also choose which grips you want to use. This ends up leaving me fairly well balanced out. Oct 10, 2024 · Incorrect Grip Technique Improper grip technique is another common issue among beginners. Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. The biggest benefit to training half crimp is that it is the best grip to use on some hold types. Full Crimp and Half Crimp Grips. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. But the third image is what I’m confused on. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. The results below are specific to the experimental group’s gains after the four-week training program. The half crimp grip. May 2, 2018 · However, this is not a hard-and-fast rule. com Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. And I understand the last image is a full crimp since the May 1, 2024 · Half-Crimp: The half-crimp is the grip with the most applications while climbing. My anecdote: I have always found half crimp unnatural, and weak. As a beginner, stick to half crimps and open crimps, which means leaving your thumb off the hold and creating a 90-degree angle with your hand (half crimp) or fully opening it, hanging by your pads (open crimp). The images below provides an example of using a single rubber-band in an open-hand and half crimp position. Four finger half crimp 2. The half crimp is While crimping requires a predominant use of the support grip, the pinch grip is required for pinching handholds and the crush grip is required for overall palm strength. The nature of the hold will determine the safest grip. Learn all about how to do it and how to avoid crimping injuries. To perform a half crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinkie is straight (simply because it is shorter). While their default grip leans towards the chisel, they question the potential benefits of the often-praised half crimp. Joint Angle – This is the angle that the grip position creates at the finger joint, although this may vary from climber to climber (ie. Beginner Hangboard Workout Warm-Up (15–20 Regardless, if you opt to continue training the drag grip, I'd recommend: Order your grips from highest to lowest priority; likely, half-crimp first. Hence, we don’t ever want to hang to failure when training. Jul 7, 2022 · A further way to build finger strength for slopers is to hang on flat edges using your back three fingers (middle, ring and pinky) with a half-crimp grip. Focus on mastering the open-hand and half-crimp grips before advancing to riskier techniques. How many rounds can you endure? Finger Endurance Test #2 While the previous test targets power-endurance, this hangboard test measures your stamina. Jun 4, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. I've been trying to research this topic but it's very hard to find anything out there about I did this by training max hangs in strict half crimp; I'm still only training this grip, and still only with max hangs. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. Feb 21, 2022 · Grip Tips The utility grip for campusing is the “chisel” or “campus half-crimp” (figure A), where the index finger holds straight, the middle and ring fingers bend at 90 degrees, and the little finger is straight or very slightly bent. For each grip condition (slope crimp, half crimp, and full crimp), 3 trials were performed in a random order to avoid order effect. For those wondering, the chisel grip is a variation of the half crimp, where the index finger is straight and used more passively. For most climbers, this is the top grip to train, as it builds finger strength, which translates to the broadest range of holds. Sep 19, 2024 · When training the full-crimp position, a 20mm edge is most effective. Nov 9, 2022 · What grip positions should you train? Half crimp: This is best ‘all rounder’ for training strength as it is arguably more transferrable than other positions. Start with a load that allows you to hang for 15-20 seconds max, and after 5 minutes of rest, add 5 to 10kg. The test ends when you can’t sustain the pattern anymore. This has worked for me. Mar 27, 2019 · The full-crimp grip involves fully closing the fingers and hyper-extending (bending back) the first finger joints whilst locking the thumb over the index fingernail. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. Related: Injury Prevention Quick Tip—Preventing and Strengthening Against Shoulder Nov 9, 2021 · I reckon half crimp has the worst/longest lever arm and is therefore the most inefficient grip which perversely makes it the most effective grip to train. Finger Position – The positioning and engagement of fingers in a specific grip type that allows you to grip a hold with maximum efficiency. During the Slope grip (F (1,3) = 52. The image below shows an example of using a half crimp grip with a portable hangboard. Jun 10, 2013 · in half crimp when compared to the Slope grip with an average difference of 2. Hangboard in half crimp position, like how you tested. The full crimp grip. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. I've been hangboarding for years now and mostly train with half-crimp and three-finger open. Fortune favors prepared fingers. Jan 31, 2022 · Only ever training in a half crimp or openhanded position and then expecting to be able to crimp to your maximum on a project seems like madness to me. Load Safety is always the number one priority as the goal of hangboarding is to improve your strength. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. Crimp encompasses three different grip types– open hand or half crimp, closed crimp, and full crimp. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Reduce the number of reps to 5 if using this high weight. Aug 30, 2023 · Navigating the intricate world of rock climbing grips, a climber ponders the value of mastering the half crimp.