Micro nuts climbing reddit. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them.
Micro nuts climbing reddit. Many options. Yes, get a set of nuts. In any manner I suggest figuring out the framing first and making sure your t-nuts don't overlap the frame. Maybe the YouTube videos get more views with exciting stuff like gear ripping out. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… When it comes to small/micro sized cams, having a cam with the largest camming range makes it so much easier to place and I believe the black diamond Z4s beat the dmms by enough of a margin to be noticeably when using them. Comparable to a solid bolt. You're not too heavy! Cams are plenty strong, I wouldn't worry about that. 495K subscribers in the mildlypenis community. For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. They are neat devices but honestly, just grab some micro tricams or regular micro cams. Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. 5 racks looking to make it a true double. Pitons are still used in the alpine in many places, and extensively in winter climbing areas. If you want two racks of nuts? Do it. Flaring inward will be more bomber than a standard because it'll rattle less, and will more easily set. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Should we assume his last placement, the micro offset set nut, was placed in a keyhole pocket? I've always been taught that nuts in horizontal cracks is not safe as they can pull out sideways. I have a rack of totems then BD C4 . They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. I paid retail for a full set of DMM offsets (alloy and brass) and #1-11 wallnuts over getting BD nuts at cost. Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. Aluminium micro nuts. Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. You can set them in perpendicular if you find that placement, but it will be less secure. Offset aliens - mandatory for beat out pin scars. The same size BallNut feels more solid in this tiny placements and has a much bigger contact area than a micro friend. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Your standard double rack is complete, and you now have enough gear to climb almost any classic that you have ever dreamed about! Step 4: Up to you and your tastes. 5 to 2 or 3. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Add a #5 and 6? This is basically a "totally fine or retarded?" question. Not only did he invent the brass micro-nuts that now bear his initials (RPs), he used to climb with a MOTHERFUCKING PARROT ON HIS SHOULDER. The extendable slings on the dmms are nice though. they zipper more often than not. Besides, Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are made of a copper and iron mix which is likely to be stronger than traditional brass micro nuts like RP's. where I climb (Mt Arapiles, Australia), double sets of nuts, including micro nuts are standard. Jul 9, 2003 路 This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings. Does anyone know what nuts have the shortest wire length? I want to use one as a keychain so everyone knows I trad. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. Help assessing used climbing nuts Hello everyone! Recently i've started to buy my own trad rack, and I need some advice on buying second hand gear. Cutting edge trad climbing sometimes involves placing marginal gear, usually backed up with better gear below. 3 and below for me. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. The cracks are rarely perfect splitters so hexes are quite useful as well. All my screwgates. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. 33 votes, 16 comments. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. I use a double rack of the mastercams all the way up, I quite like them in general, and it's nice having a matching set that starts at the micro cam size. I really like my WC Zero's for 0. (it doesnt have to be perfect when climbing at your limit, but it looks like every move you are making a small mistake or two). I own doubles in the smallest three sizes. Some will feel that they're cheating - some don't give a shit. Title says it really. A micro wire belay would be scary but I would trust with that kit I could at least make something that would work in a pinch. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Moral of the story: always wear a helmet. I would pay retail for those nuts instead of buying BD nuts. Good placement is as good. Feb 2, 2024 路 Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. That's all assuming a solid placement though, small nuts are harder to place correctly. Higher kN ratings than most equivalent sized micro cams for sizes 4 and 5, and stronger kN ratings for equivalent sized nuts for sizes 1 through 3. They didn't have nice safe falls on shiny bolts and modern dynamic ropes, they Only the tiniest micro nuts are 2 kN, basically anything bigger than the smallest 2 or 3 sizes can be fallen on. I thought it may be of interest to some. It would eat up the slings and make them less 12 votes, 13 comments. The first piton belay I ever got to I didn’t trust and backed it up with a bomber nut and cam of normal size and everything felt super safe. If they're actually climbing (or have for many years) then they aren't armchair climbers. Everyone feels different ways about the smaller cams. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. I've found other nut tools to be too thick. Slot the indents over little nubs (ala Wallnuts). Specifically thinking about free climbing and understand the placements would easily blow in a whip but I keep three sets of small/micro nuts on a single carabiner (which I only bring on climbs that promise to be sustainedly thin). 6s spicy 馃 Accessibility: Indoor climbing gyms have become increasingly prevalent, making the sport more accessible to people living in urban areas or regions without natural climbing spots. My understanding is that the three smallest sizes are smaller than any modern micro cam. Thanks in advance!! I own cam sizes down to a purple C3 (00) and a full range of micro nuts and ball nuts have mostly made the smallest nuts obsolete for me. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. 1. They compliment each other and I find at least in my area that offset nuts and micro nuts are much more occasional pieces placed than regular nuts. 729 votes, 25 comments. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. The Offset Micro uses a copper-iron mix with similar overall characteristics to brass. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Talk to local climbers, that's your best bet. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Having climbed with pretty much all the different nuts out there, my personal choice for a new rack would be full DMM: one set of 10 wallnuts, and one set of 5 alloy offset. Mostly I use the ovals and Ds for racking gear and for the gear side of alpine draws. And I really love them nuts. Damaging a cam is pretty hard by falling (with an exception of improperly places OP link cam). Master cams - budget option. Namely the DMM Demon, a now discontinued line of cams. Check out our great prices and latest deals! You gotta under-drill the bolts and use 12kn amazon carabiners with shoestring dogbones to make up for not using black aliens and micro nuts rated to 4kn, just to be fair to the spirit of trad climbing. Ball nuts are for static weight in aid climbing, not free climbing dynamic falls. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. Luckily, the second piece, a nut with a rated for more than psychological held, and I ended up with nothing more than a head-bang. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the Found this interesting article on Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micro nuts. They can provide bomber protection quickly in a situation where you do not have time (or want to) hand drill, cannot bring a power drill, where small removable protection (ball nuts, micro cams, micro nuts) is not nearly as bomber, and when that crack is icy Oct 25, 2024 路 The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. 5-3, and Master Cams or Aliens for smaller sizes. BD offset micro nuts are decent though. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Such as carabiners unclipping in a fall, ropes cutting, knots failing, slings breaking, cross-loaded carabiners snapping, etc. Generally when a guidebook says "a single rack" that is what they mean. it's dangerous. So I always clip wires, pitons, bolts with the ovals or D solid gates. Totems - amazing but impossible to find. Even some micro cams aren't really rated for falls. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. DMM offset alloys and brassies are a cheaper option than a whole set of offset cams. 75 for the BD Z4s but don’t have any experience with them. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. What do I need to climb big walls in Yosemite? My regular climbing partner and I have been climbing together for 6 years (and separately for longer), and we have a fair amount of sport climbing experience. 1 but DMM Dragonflies would be a good alternative. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. Pitons are not evil in certain situations. Re: Stick Clips - that's 100% up to you IMO. If it's fixed, it's bomber! Gym climbing really just doesn't appeal to me. The brass ball doesn't make them more of a marginal piece, however it does makes them very prone to get stuck after a big whipper, which is the only downside I see to them. Reply [deleted]• Additional comment actions Started really shitting myself. 313 votes, 122 comments. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Where will you be climbing? The basic trad rack varies by area, but a lot of people like C4's from . TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't Single axis cams. . Climbit, I would like introduce you to a climber you should know: Roland Pauligk. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. first set of nuts, DMM, Wild Country, or Black Diamond? any suggertions? I think the usefulness of hexes is very dependant on where you climb. I have made that mistake before and nothing like having the middle of your wall be blank with holds (but Aug 8, 2022 路 With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. But then encouraging people to carry double sets of nuts would be madness in many other areas. What would actually damage the sandstone climbing experience is damaged sandstone because of wear (Better pro -> more climbers; look at frequented beginner routes, they are nothing but rope cuts anymore. If standard nuts are secure in the rear, but rattly up front, try an offset. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. Two reasons. X4 - famous for failing. Also, micro-nuts should probably be just for aiding. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. Edit* I have quads in . When trad climbing you have to consider the system as a whole and it’s ability to protect you and your belayer from the worst case scenarios. Both alloys are softer metals than the more common aluminum. What were the placement conditions / fall factors involved? Since you're asking about attaching to nuts/cams I assume you're not asking about sport climbing ;) I carry a mix of both straight wiregates and some old ovals and Ds with solid gates. How to make specialized micro nuts and bolts with M2 threads? I have to make a nut that can thread an M2 bolt with a 35mm thread and with thumbscrews on them and preferably a screwdriver recess for drilling. Jan 7, 2020 路 A relative newcomer to the offset micro nut market, the Black Diamond Offset Micro offers some new tweaks on the older classic designs. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. Here's what you need to know. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment evh51 • Additional comment actions Deez Reply waitwhatpie • Additional comment actions Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. And yes we are scared of falling. 5 - #5. What I would worry about are the smallest cams and micro nuts, which have smaller wires and have a lower strength rating. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now Oct 31, 2024 路 Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. 5 & . climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Queensland’s hardest trad climb. For fans of ice climbing. What are the decent options available for micro cams for trad climbing? I currently have camalots blue to blue and am looking for something to complement them. A lot of other brand micro nuts are rated anywhere from 6 to 10kn. Micro nuts are pretty specifically used for aiding. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango These things replaced all cams around 0. Offset nuts and micro nuts How have you been living with just that old square rack of nuts? Yes! Thank you for this post, because I'm a broke student beginning trad, therefore I love nuts. Climber Decks. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. 2/0. The main complaint with those seem to Ball nuts, tricams, micro nuts, and micro cams may be required depending on the route. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine Offset cams are expensive. I have now switched to autolockers, nameley Edelrid slider biners. The research I've found the following: C3 - narrow heads but some hate them. What gear you need is entirely dependent on where you climb. One of my snaps during filming my mates on Brown Corduroy Trousers (28), Frogs Buttress, QLD. We're semi-seriously thinking about setting a goal of climbing Half Dome or another big wall in Yosemite in 2020. I know it's not optimal to buy second hand pro, but unfortunately, much of the trad equipment I can find in Brazil are used. Jun 4, 2025 路 Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. MANY of the people in the northeast (especially the gunks) prefer aliens to almost anything else when it comes to small cams (myself included). That above is worst case scenario, except if pitons are the only option. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Ignoring the <5kN rating for them, they have a tendency to squish out easily from placements when you fall on them, due to their size and taper. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Your cart is empty Continue shoppingMicro Nuts Shop for climbing micro nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. "Armchair" implies that the person just sits there and talks about things from the comfort of an armchair (as in "armchair quarterback"). What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). 5 and 5. For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. Softer brass micro nuts sit that much more secure in pinscar cracks. What were the conditions leading to your gear failure? Edit: As well as cams failing and nuts shearing. And then some IMPs (ex-RPs) for micro nuts, plus maybe the new BD brass offset if you climb a lot in piton scarred rock. 5 days ago 路 The move from nuts / cams to just cams - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. I'm more talking about doubling up on the midrange and larger nuts though, to supplement a lack of cams. 7). Not a concern for a cam in a splitter crack, but if you're placing gear Apr 28, 2019 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Keeps the design sleek, would recommend DMM offset nuts, or micro brassies for style points Sep 4, 2020 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. keep those 5. Thoughts?? Dec 19, 2019 路 Step 3: Double up the finger sizes (3 cams), add in 1-3 micro cams, buy a set of micro nuts (usually 6-8 nuts), add another #3 and a #4 sized cam. Do you have a specific reason for not placing and trusting sufficiently strong micro nut placements? Jan 6, 2020 路 The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. You wouldn't be the first to break a micro nut's wire in a big fall. In the BD QC Lab article, they mentioned that actual pull tests rated much higher than 5kN but they felt the need to rate them very conservatively due to variance in placements can cause them to fail in unpredictable ways. You can open But some of this gear is second hand, well loved by me and others and with the exception of the micro nuts from my dad and the rescue 8 which was a climbing gym lost and found for 3 months transitioned to employee grab bag item I have placed or used it all! I have gotten a lot of spare lockers from the exact same gym lost and found. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. I use blue #1 and red #2 Trango or Camp ball nuts for super small options, then metolius ultralight mastercams 00 and 0. A subreddit dedicated to items that unintentionally have some sort of phallic nature. Trying to master my gear placement though. The home of Climbing on reddit. Because we believe the best climbing nut is not the best for everyone. Micro nuts (brass, offsets) - love em. why haven't they caught on? I suspect that they were more commonly used before micro cams became available. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. For me, a basic rack is a set of nuts and cams . Im going to get rid of the . The result is it isn't as durable as aluminum headed models but much like brass models, slightly deforms to the 85 votes, 37 comments. Climbing with people in your area will do more to help you figure out what you need than asking a message board filled with (mostly) non-locals. I usually use a quickdraw on a well placed stopper. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. They are comprised of two halves: one half is a paddle and the other is a flat ball which tracks up and down a central groove on the paddle when the trigger is pulled or released. Most folks would recommend that new climbers stay away from hang boards entirely until they have been climbing consistently and relatively seriously for 2-3 years. In the order of how often they get used: Metolius Astro Nuts (free set) - bronze, not brass Black Diamond Micro Stoppers - iron/copper mix DMM Peenuts - aluminum By the time you're trying to place gear this small, it's usually down to weird irregularities in the crack Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! Oct 19, 2021 路 Concise climbing nuts reviews tailored to your needs. smallest range of cams - get comfortable with standing on 2 lobes. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Clearly having a cheater stick will get you passed some blown heads, blown rivets There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. I tend to lead everything for my friends so own 1. Biners for racking. Micro nuts well. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. I can climb really hard TRAD, probably harder than you. Also looking for opinions on micro cams. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. 10K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. Unlike the more popular Dragon line it was single axis and as a result had much worse expansion range and less secure when placed. I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. I just have no desire to climb indoors. Damaging passive pro is next to impossible (at least, passive gear that is intended to be used as a lead pro - techie gear put aside) 1. : r/climbing TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Hey everyone! I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. They’re like small cams or micro-nuts - sometimes essential pieces but special care is needed to use them effectively. The other way gear rips is when the rock itself breaks. 51 votes, 73 comments. Like others have said, keep both. 3-4 three sets of aliens 4 pink tricams a set of nuts a few hexes 8 alpine draws a red and green big bro bd micro nuts metonius micro nuts wild country micro nuts and hb offset I bought the Metolius "Torque" nut tool specifically because of the thinner blade - which is great for breaking loose micro nuts. And generally older "hardman" climbers did things a lot more dangerously back in the day. Hey I’m a new climber and I was wondering if people had some wisdom to share and what you wish you knew when you started rock climbing. Lots of small micro adjustments and lack of cleaning up the beta. 8mm spans via Trango). How about racking nuts pre-strung on alpine draws? It would avoid the hassle of setting up a draw for every placement, the fumbling around with and possibly dropping the leftover group of nuts, and would make re-racking a lot simpler. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting.